Note: Information as of September 2020
- I decided to go with a partially assembled PCB to save myself some time (and grief) due to my lack of soldering skills.
- Parts list is for a big thumb cluster with 2 2u keys (LAYOUT_3key_2us in QMK configurator), you don't have to use the stabilizers and you don't need them at all if you don't have 2u keys.
- There's no per-key backlight so if you want something like LED layer or caps lock status indication, your best bet is using RGB underglow.
Note: Doesn't include keycaps
| Name | Notes | Total Price |
|---|---|---|
| PCB | Partially assembled and comes with a TRRS cable | 50 € |
| 2x Pro Micro clone | It's said that you can use Elite-C if you want USB Type C | ~12 € |
| Case | Comes with rubber feet | 32.9 € |
| Plate from LaserBoost | Custom plate, acryllic one that comes with the case has non-standard thickness (doesn't support plate mounted switches and stabilizers correctly) and significant flex | ~70 € |
| Switches | 72x, 68 needed for this build | ~52 € |
| Stabilizers | 4x 2u, plate mounted | 9 € |
| 24x Underglow LEDs | WS2812B | ~10 € |
| Total | 235 € |
Note: You need a 470RΩ resistor and an LED for each of the backlit keys
Note: These are metal film resistors, but it shouldn't matter
| Name | Notes | Price per unit |
|---|---|---|
| 2x Mosfet | IRLML6344TRPBF | ~0.14 € |
| 2x 1KΩ resistor | 6.3x2.4mm, 0.6W | ~0.11 € |
| LED | Ø 3mm | ~0.11 € |
| 470Ω resistor | 6.3x2.4mm, 0.6W | ~0.11 € |
There are not so many sources of dedicated Ergodash keycaps. Here are the ones I've found:
DO NOT ATTACH THE PRO MICRO BEFORE YOU HAVE ALL THE SWITCHES SOLDERED ON, OTHERWISE YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO ATTACH THE TWO SWITCHES UNDER THE PRO MICRO PROPERLY
I did it a bit differently than the official build guide suggests just because I wanted to be extra sure everything works as expected prior to doing anything that can't be easily reverted.
Layout creation, compilation and flashing instructions can be found in the QMK docs. To reset short the RST and GND pins.
To check that everything works as expected, I attached the Pro Micro to the PCB using tin foil to create a connection between the Pro Micro and the headers.
Flash the Pro Micro from your computer, using the reset button instead of shorting the pins directly.
Open QMK Configurator test and short the pins under each switch using tweezers, a piece of wire or anything else conductive. Keep in mind that not all keys will be registered (the exceptions include QMK layer switching keys).
Note: for ungerglow to work, you need to have
RGBLIGHT_ENABLE = yesin yourrules.mk
Jump the pins on the Pro Micro side of the PCB like this:
Left hand:
Right hand:
Solder on the LEDs. Pay attention to the orientation (position of the chamfered corner of the diode is indicated on the PCB). Method that worked best for me was to put flux on the PCB, hold the LED in place with reverse tweezers and solder all four corners one by one.
The LEDs are connected sequentially so if something is not working, check the soldering of the last working LED and the first not working one.
Check the underglow using the RGB_TOG key.
If everything is working as expected, remove the Pro Micro and all the traces of the temporary attachment. Be careful not to leave any tin foil as it can short the pins of the Pro Micro which is extremely difficult to desolder.
Assemble the stabilizers and attach them to the plate, then attach the switches. Pay attention to the switch orientation. This is also a good time to mod stabilizers if you're so inclined.
Pro Micros are notorious for having a weak USB port so to prevent it being torn off it can be reinforced with a bit of epoxy. Be extra careful not to get any epoxy inside the connector.
Using a permanent marker paint the sides of the Pro Micro and the PCB. This step is obviously optional, but it does look cooler if you do it.
Solder the switches onto the PCB starting with four switches at the corners of the plate for stability and convenience.
As mentioned earlier, desoldering a Pro Micro is not a trivial task so try to get it perfect the first time.
This is pretty self explanatory, first attach the standoffs to the plate and then screw the bottom cover in place. Attach the rubber feet.
Note: The case comes with 6mm standoffs which are way to short for use with a standard 1.5 mm thich plate, standoffs of the appropriate length (8-9 mm) can be found on eBay dirt cheap
